Potty Training Rabbits [BACK TO CARE]
It is not very hard to potty train rabbits...In fact its kinda easy!
Domestic rabbits are relatively easy to 
house/potty train. Their personal preference is generally for cleanliness. The only differences are that they are just a bit more difficult than a cat and far easier than a dog to train.
Older rabbits have better-established personal grooming habits and will most likely take to litter training more easily than a young rabbit. However, with a little patience, even a young rabbit will learn to use the litter box sooner or later.
Spayed and neutered rabbits are easier to litter train than unaltered pet rabbits. Unaltered pet rabbits who are litter trained at an early age may regress and need a refresher when they hit sexual maturity.
To do:
1) Getting a high corner litter box especially for pet rabbit cages is the most important part of traning your rabbit. Corner boxes take up less space than other shapes. If you decide to use a low walled box, you will cringe every time your rabbit jumps out of the box and flips those back feet as they so often do causing litter to go everywhere.
2) Choose a litter that is safe for rabbits. Many different types of litter can be used in trays under the cages and carriers where rabbits cannot reach it. Again, I must note that, special attention must be made to the choice of litter for inside the litter box itself where the rabbit can physically touch the litter.
**When you first bring your pet rabbit home do not place a litter box in its cage. Instead, observe your rabbit for at least 2 weeks. Find out where your rabbit likes to do its business. It will almost always be the back left or back right corner. This is where you will place the litter box.
3) After having the litter box in the cage with the rabbit for about 3 weeks. You can let your rabbit out of the rabbit cage, be sure to keep it confined to a small area that has a litter box (more than one, if needed). I would suggest building a pin around the rabbits cage and then opening the cage to allow some freedom. If you do this there will be less confusion as to where the litter box is.
After a while, you will figure out which pan is your rabbits favorite (if you add more than one), then you can remove the rest. Expect a few dry, nearly odorless droppings from time to time no matter how well litter trained your rabbit is. They are very easy to sweep away (just keep a brush and dustpan combo handy).
Notes From Me:
You will find it always best to work with your pet rabbit rather than to get upset and be rough with your rabbit. They don't understand that. Just be patient. Your rabbit will learn.
Sometimes, rabbits will think that you have provided them with a nice place to sleep instead of a place to use the bathroom. When this happens you can try adding another litter box or a resting mat or something else to make your rabbit want to choose another resting place.
If your rabbit is successful in urinating consistently in his litter box, then you have 98% of the problem taken care of anyway.
If you are holding your rabbit and he becomes restless, it may be a sign that he is about to urinate. Try to be sensitive to the signals your rabbit is giving you. Also, if your pet rabbit raises his tail, he may be just about to urinate. Place him gently and without much fanfare in his litter box.
Never scold or punish a pet rabbit. It will not have the effect you want.
© 2009 - 2010 Martin's Bunnies
